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Activate cruise control and install buttons.

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Well, in general, there is nothing special to tell, everything has been chewed for a long time. But still, I will point out some facts and features.
Block 6R7 937 087 P snatched off on ebay. You can activate a lot of things on it. Of the plans to remake the fog and activate the adaptive lighting (corner light), but only from the turn signals. There is no steering wheel sensor, and the toad is strangling to fly. Although if I suddenly find cheap, then maybe I'll be stingy.
It also looks like you will have to let the dimensions through the control unit, because The block gives errors that it cannot "smell" the parking lights of the left and right sides.

The block had a very interesting story. I copied the encoding of the native block, installed a new block, added the encoding from the native block, and got a big problem. The CZ refused to shut itself off from anything. The button on the door handle, the button on the key, turning the key in the driver's door larva - the central lock showed no signs of life in terms of closing. There were no errors in the CZ.
Where I just did not dig. Thought the relay was faulty. But on the second day I got into testing, and it turned out that, as part of the test, the central lock is locked even with the driver's door open. Then I thought that the control unit was somehow dissatisfied with the signals from the limit switches, but the whole day of working on this version did not give any results. And only on the third day, sorting through everything, I wandered into adaptation and looked at the factory mode channel. And there was 1. Changing it to 0, everything worked for me.

Pins, wires were purchased. By the way, there are rubber plugs in the ICE control unit connector. They can be converted into a pin seal. According to Hatch's scheme, "+" was taken after SB11, i.e. With headlight corrector.
There were no problems with coding. My dash is red, so you can't turn on the indicator.

The most interesting thing is that I decided not to change the dragonfly, but to independently introduce ordinary buttons into my native one.
I do not recommend repeating this. If I knew how difficult it all is, I probably would have ordered a dragonfly on Ali or on ebay. But "Challenge accepted", and another flea shoeing operation began to spin.
Schematically it looks like this:

Separate buttons for cruise control.

To turn on, we have a switch with fixation.
The set/-, reset/+ buttons are regular tact buttons.
On "cancel" we have a non-latching switch. And note that the "cancel" button is wired as normally-CLOSED. I first soldered as normally open. I rode for a long time, and could not understand why the cruise was not working. And when diagnosing, I watched the channels of all 4 buttons. I turn on the main switch - the channel becomes ON. I press the clock buttons - the channels respond "active". So the cansel should be constantly active, and when pressed, it should be inactive.

As I then stuffed all this into the cover of the switch - this is hell and Israel. It turned out to be a very painstaking work, but I managed:

Clock buttons stick out from the side (it seems to be 12mm high). At the top, they sharpen caps put on micro buttons.

Source: https://www.drive2.ru/l/7044810/

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