Disassembly and assembly of the transfer case Chevrolet Niva

Tools:

• Bearing puller
• Retaining ring puller
• Tweezers
• punch
• Chisel
• Vices with soft metal jaws
• Screwdriver flat medium
• Straight box wrench 10 mm
• Straight spanner wrench 13 mm
• Straight box wrench 17 mm
• Straight box wrench 24 mm
• Straight spanner wrench 27 mm
• Collar for end nozzle 3/4
• Nozzle on the crank 10 mm
• Nozzle on the crank 13 mm
• Nozzle for crank 17 mm
• Nozzle for crank 24 mm
• Nozzle for crank 27 mm
• Mounting blade
• Small hammer
• torque wrench

Parts and consumables:

• sealant
• Transfer case gaskets
• Self-locking nuts

Disassembly and assembly of the Chevrolet Niva transfer case

1. Drain the oil from the transfer case as described here .

2. Remove the transfer case as described here and clean it of dirt.

3. We loosen the nuts of the three flanges of the transfer case shafts, as described here .

4. Remove the speed sensor drive housing, as described here .

5. Disconnect the thrust of the differential lock lever from the axis of the fork of the control lever.

6. With a 13 spanner wrench, unscrew the five nuts securing the front axle drive housing.

7. Prying off the crankcase tides with a screwdriver.

8. Remove it complete with the front axle drive shaft.

9. The connection is sealed with a gasket.

10. Using a screwdriver, pry off the lock washer of the axis of the lock lever.

11. Remove the lock washer of the axis of the lock lever.

12. We take out the axis of the differential lock lever (if difficult, we knock it out with a soft metal drift).

13. Remove the differential lock lever.

14. Two plastic bushings are installed in the lever hole.

15. Turn off the differential lock indicator switch as described here .

16. Remove the lever spring from the stem of the differential lock fork.

17. Using the “13” head, unscrew the four nuts securing the front axle drive housing cover.

18. Remove the cover and gasket.

Note:

Replace a heavily compressed or torn gasket by lubricating it with a thin layer of sealant on both sides before installation.

19. We take out the spring and shake out the retainer ball from the crankcase socket.

20. Using a “10” spanner, unscrew the locking bolt of the differential lock clutch fork.

21. We take out a bolt with a spring washer.

22. We pry off the protective cover of the differential lock fork rod with a screwdriver.

23. We take out the stock with a cover.

Warning:

Extend the stem very carefully, as the retainer ball is spring-loaded and can abruptly fly out of the stem socket.

24. Remove the plug.

25. Remove the differential lock clutch.

26. Remove the flange.

27. Squeezing with tongs, remove the circlip of the front axle drive shaft bearing.

28. We take out the shaft assembly from the crankcase.

29. Remove the oil deflector and thrust ring from the front end of the shaft.

30. Hooking the outer ring of the bearing with a three-arm puller.

31. Press the bearing.

32. With a “13” spanner, unscrew the nut of the control lever axis.

33. We remove the axis from the hole in the lever along with the rod.

34. Remove the control lever.

35. We take out from the hole of the lever, the spacer sleeve.

36. We take out two plastic bushings.

37. Using a screwdriver, remove the petals of the locking sleeve from the groove of the lever rod.

38. Remove the sleeve from the lever rod.

39. Remove the lever rod.

40. Prying with a screwdriver, we remove the rubber bushing and the thrust pad from the hole of the rod.

41. Opening the petals of the remote sleeve, remove it from the lever.

42. Remove the rubber bushing from the lever.

43. Remove the locking sleeve from the lever.

Note:

All elements for fixing the rod on the lever (bushings and pillows) are used from VAZ-2101-2107 cars.

44. Using the “13” key, unscrew the two nuts securing the control lever bracket.

45. Remove the bracket assembly with the fork.

46. Holding the fork, with the “13” head, unscrew the nut securing the fork axis.

47. We take out the axis.

48. Two plastic bushings are installed in the bracket hole.

49. Having unscrewed the nut of the drive shaft flange, remove the washer. We remove the flange.

Warning:

Self-locking nuts must not be reused, replace them with new ones!

50. Using the “13” key, we unscrew the three nuts securing the cover of the front bearing of the input shaft.

51. Prying off the tides of the cover with a screwdriver.

52. We remove it. The lid is sealed.

53. Using the “13” head, unscrew the eight nuts securing the rear cover to the transfer case crankcase.

54. Pry off the cover with a screwdriver.

55. Remove the cover assembly with the rear axle drive shaft.

56. Remove the gasket.

57. Remove the rear axle drive shaft from the rear cover and disassemble it in the same way as the front axle drive shaft.

Details of the rear axle drive shaft and rear cover.

58. With a “10” head, unscrew the four nuts securing the hatch.

59. Remove the hatch.

60. Remove the gasket.

61. Inside the hatch, with a “10” spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the fork to the stem.

62. Using a screwdriver, we shift the stem cover.

63. So that the ball and spring of the stem retainer do not pop out, cover the hole with your finger and gradually pull the stem.

64. In this case, the retainer ball falls out through the side opening of the crankcase.

65. Remove the latch spring with tweezers.

66. Remove the gear shift fork.

67. Remove the remote plastic sleeve.

68. We take out the stock.

69. The shafts of the differential lock fork and the gearshift fork are sealed with rubber rings. To replace the shift fork rod ring, pry off the sealing ring with a screwdriver and remove it.

70. Similarly, we take out the sealing ring of the differential lock fork rod.

71. Unlock the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts.

72. With a “27” spanner wrench, unscrew one of the nuts, keeping the shafts from turning by the other nut with a wrench or head of the same size.

73. Remove the nut and washer.

74. We insert the propeller shaft mounting bolts into the flange holes and put the flange on the splines of the transfer case drive shaft.

We unscrew the second nut, keeping the shafts from turning with a mounting blade inserted between the bolts.

75. Remove the nut and washer. Remove the drive shaft flange. Remove the thrust ring of the front bearing of the drive shaft.

76. Using the “13” key, unscrew the three remaining nuts securing the front cover of the transfer case.

77. The remaining nuts of the front cover were unscrewed when dismantling the cover of the front bearing of the input shaft, the front axle drive housing and the control lever bracket. Remove the front cover of the transfer case with differential.

78. Remove the gasket from the transfer case crankcase studs.

79. Use pliers to remove the adjusting ring of the front bearing of the differential housing.

80. We disconnect the differential and the front cover of the transfer case.

81. We take out (or knock out through a soft metal drift) from the socket of the front cover the outer ring of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

82. Using tongs, open the retaining ring of the front bearing of the differential housing.

83. Remove the ring.

84. Remove the spring washer.

85. We install a suitable stop for the puller screw and a three-jaw puller in the hole in the front differential case.

86. Compress the front bearing.

Remove the rear bearing in the same way.

87. We put marks on the front and rear differential housings so that during assembly they do not disturb the balance of the assembly.

Clamping the differential housing in a vise with soft metal sponge pads, with a “17” ring wrench, unscrew the six bolts securing the driven gear, front and rear differential housings.

88. Disconnect the front and rear differential housings. In this case, the driven gear remains on the front housing.

89. We knock it off the body through a soft metal drift.

90. Disconnect the driven gear and the front differential case.

91. Remove its support washer from the front axle drive gear.

92. We take out the gear itself.

93. Use tongs to open the retaining ring of the axis of the satellites and remove it.

94. Remove the spring washer of the axis of the satellites.

95. Having hooked another retaining ring with pliers, we take out the axis of the satellites.

96. We take out the support washer and satellite from the rear differential case.

97. Having taken out the second satellite and its washer, we remove the rear axle drive gear.

98. To remove the input and intermediate shafts, use pliers to remove the adjusting ring of the rear bearing of the input shaft.

99. Similarly, we dismantle the ring of the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

100. We take out the drive shaft from the crankcase.

101. We take out the intermediate shaft from the crankcase.

102 . We clamp the splined part of the drive shaft into a vise with soft metal jaw pads, and hooking the puller grips on the gear shift clutch.

Remove the rear bearing, bushing, low gear and clutch.

103. Remove the clutch hub and top gear from the shaft.

104. With a puller, we compress the front bearing of the input shaft.

105 . We take out the rollers from the front bearing of the intermediate shaft with a screwdriver.

106. Remove the separator.

107. We clamp in a vise with pads of sponges made of soft metal. Prying with two mounting blades, we compress the inner ring of the front bearing.

108. Remove the inner ring of the front bearing.

109. Remove the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft in the same way as the front bearing of the input shaft.

110. Assemble the transfer case in the reverse order of disassembly.

Note:

To check the technical condition of the transfer case parts, thoroughly clean and rinse them with kerosene or white spirit.

There should be no cracks on the crankcases and box covers, and wear or damage (chips, dents, etc.) should not be allowed on the surfaces of the bores for the bearing. Damage to the bearing surfaces of the crankcases and covers can cause shaft misalignment and oil leakage. Minor damage is eliminated with a needle file, with significant damage and wear, we replace the parts with new ones.

No damage is allowed on working surfaces, threaded parts and shaft splines. The seating surfaces of the gears must not show any nicks or signs of wear. No chipping or excessive wear of gear teeth is allowed.

Ball and roller bearings must be free of damage on raceways, cages, rollers or balls, and cracks or chips on rings. Radial clearances in bearings must not exceed 0.05 mm. The rotation of the bearing rings must be smooth, without jamming. Replace damaged bearings with new ones.

Deformation of the forks and jamming of the rods in the openings of the crankcases are not allowed.

We check the absence of signs of jamming on the hub of the gearshift clutch, as well as on the splines of the differential housing. We clean the burrs and burrs with a file. In case of crushing or destruction of the ends of the coupling teeth, we replace the coupling.

We check the condition of the surface of the axis of the satellites and the holes in the differential case; in case of minor damage, we grind the surface with fine-grained sandpaper. We check the condition of the surfaces of the journals of the gears of the axle drives and their mounting holes in the differential housings, as well as the condition of the surfaces of the gear bearing washers and the end surfaces mating with them on the housings and gears of the axle drives.

Before assembling the transfer case, we clean the mating surfaces of the crankcases and covers from the remnants of old gaskets and sealant. We assemble the transfer case in reverse order.

When assembling the center differential, we combine the marks on its housings.
We install the spring washer on the axis of the satellites from the side of the blind hole at the end of the axis. With pipe segments or tool heads of a suitable size, we press on the inner ring of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

We press on the bearing of the front axle drive shaft (the pipe must rest on the inner ring).

Press on differential bearings.

In the same way, we press on the bearing of the rear axle drive shaft, the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft, the front and rear bearings of the input shaft.

We install the drive and intermediate shafts in the transfer case housing at the same time.

We apply a thin layer of silicone sealant to all gaskets.

Having tightened the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts with the prescribed torque (see below) with a torque wrench, we lock the nuts, pressing their shoulders into the grooves of the shaft shanks.

After assembly, fill in the oil as described here .

Attention:

Press the bearings onto the shafts using a mandrel, applying force only to the inner race of the bearing. When pressing the bearing into the housing (crankcase), apply force only to the outer race.

Warning:

Self-locking nuts must not be reused, replace them with new ones!
Replace all removed gaskets with new ones.

The article is missing:

• Tool photo
• Photo of parts and consumables
• High-quality repair photos

Source:  Chevrolet niva device, operation, maintenance and repair. Publishing house "Behind the wheel".